Dublin to Galway, Cliffs of Moher and Limerick: Saturday 23 July

We had an 8am departure from Dublin with a temporary new driver, Noel, while Kevin was on a couple of rest days. We soon left County Dublin and passed through County Kildare. Kildare is horse-breeding territory, and Michelle told us about the mysterious disappearance in 1981 of top race horse, Shergar. Next we travelled through County Meath, and then County Galway.

After a two hour drive to a very busy service centre for coffees and restrooms, there was a further 45 minutes to Galway. Michelle took us on a walking tour using our Vox headsets (these had been a great way of hearing our guides during several of our tours). Galway had a big horse-racing festival on and so was particularly crowded.We saw Lynch's Castle, the Collegiate Church of St Nicholas, and the Spanish Arch (the latter not being particularly interesting, but dating back to the old days of trade with Spain). Michelle also pointed out the shop where the original Claddach Ring was made, and explained its meaning and how to wear it (according to whether or not you were 'taken', or 'available'). Being a Saturday, we were able to walk past some street-side market stalls; the most interesting being the fishmonger. We didn't have much time, and it being so crowded, we were happy to sit and have some lunch in the Food 4 Thought Cafe, where I enjoyed some vegan shepherd's pie. I took photos of the signs on the doors to the women's and men's toilets - because Michelle had warned us that these might be confusing in Gaelic...

 

 

 

Not far out of Galway, on the road to the Cliffs of Moher, we struck a massive 20 minute traffic jam - a road accident, we thought, leading into the town of Clarinbridge. We also passed a couple of bridesmaids on their way to a wedding along the road - it looked like their car had broken down.

The landscapes of County Galway and County Clare changed back to farms with stone walls, as we'd seen in Scotland and the Lake District. We went through several villages, threaded along some very narrow lanes (several scary stops for our bus to squeeze past other buses and trucks). We passed through the village of Lisdoonvanna (site of the original annual 'Farmer Wants a Wife' festival (begun there hundreds of years ago). The landscape changed yet again to be more rocky (limestone) and barren - this area is called the Burren.

After a two hour drive, we finally reached the Cliffs of Moher, overlooking the Atlantic Ocean. We walked up the paths and many steps to take in the amazing views to the left and to the right along the coast. We walked further up to O'Brien's Tower, built in 1835, that marked the highest point of the cliffs. The views were spectacular and I was delighted to have been able to walk up all those steps to enjoy it! I certainly couldn't have done it a year ago, or nine weeks ago, either.

  

The interactive exhibits in the Visitor Centre displayed the geological aspects of the area, as well as the native bird and marine life. A 3D film took us with a digital/animated gannet, flying along the edges of the cliffs, and then over the side and into the ocean to see the sea life - seals, whales etc. Puffins also live along the cliffs. It was all very well done.
This area is also a popular one for surfing, and there were some beautiful sandy beach expanses beyond the cliffs. A golf course at Lahinch (apparently a favourite of Tiger Woods) might be incorporated in Mark T's next golf tour?! There were lots of holiday homes adjacent to these areas.

  

Another two hour drive and we finally reached the George Boutique Hotel in Limerick. Then, within only half an hour (because of being held up by the earlier traffic delays), we were straight out again for a medieval banquet at Knappogue Castle (near Shannon) a 30 minute drive away. The countryside was very picturesque, and we were soon driving up to a real (renovated) castle from the 15th century.

  

We were greeted by lords and ladies dressed in period costume, and handed cups of mead (a wine made from honey - though a quick Google by me found that it may sometimes also contain grain - so I had to pass) - I had cordial instead (sachet mix? and later suspected it had glutened me). There was plenty of low alcohol wine on the tables. Some people from each tour group were chosen to be a king and queen, and given crowns, and had to sit at the high table. There was pleasant background entertainment from musicians on violin and harp, with interludes as each dish was presented - four courses (in addition to bread, GF for me): Salmon with salad, tomato and basil soup (which we had to drink directly from the bowl, no spoons), roast chicken, mashed potato and veges, and then dessert (fruit salad again for me, but they had gone to some effort to make it more special). There was some dramatic entertainment enacting a bit of a medieval storyline involving some of the chosen kings and queens, and lots of hilarity. There was some singing and Irish jig dancing to finish, and the show was all over by 9pm. It was very well done and something completely different for us.

 

There was more banter and laughter and singing in the bus on the way home, especially between some of the Aussies and Americans. Over all, an excellent night out, and we didn't have to drive ourselves home!