Bordeaux - Paris - to Dubai - Thursday 7 September

We were lucky we didn't have the early start on our final morning that some people did (ie 3:30am)! We enjoyed our breakfast and farewelled our lovely waiter, Nicolai.



Then we did our final packing, with suitcases needing to be outside our cabin and our cabin vacated by 9am. We then waited in the lounge with other departing passengers, for our taxi to arrive at the appointed time of 10:40am. We farewelled the Barrows when they left for the airport at 9:45am and to pick up their rental car for their independent travel. Our taxi was nearly 15 minutes late and the trip to Bordeaux St Jean railway station was slow in the traffic, but the driver was very nice. We arrived around 40 minutes before our train was due to leave, and along with some fellow passengers from the boat who happened to be on the same train AND the same Emirates flight out of Paris, panicked a little about how to get our big suitcases to the right platform (sometimes requiring the use of stairs) and onto the train in the 20 minutes time you have between the notification of platform, rushing to that platform (there are so many) and the train leaving. We were upstairs on the train, in First Class, but left our big cases below, but some people lugged bags up the narrow stairs to the top. Actually we were very grateful for the assistance (three times) from SNCF train staff directing us to the right place even before the train arrival platform was announced, and assisting to get one of our cases up the stairs to the platform (no ramp etc where we were at the time).

The train was a lot more comfortable than the one we'd travelled on from Paris a week earlier. Also, this time I was able to charge my iPad, and the wifi actually worked! We dined on a banana each (scrounged for us by Nickolai) and I enjoyed a couple of GF muesli bars that I'd carried all the way from New Zealand. We also had a few leftover chocolates that were left on our pillows each evening, and that we hadn't eaten.





The train arrived 20 minute late at Charles de Gaulle Airport, and we had four minutes to get ourselves and our luggage off before the train continued on, all this while others were trying to board the train with their luggage!

We thought we were in for a long wait from 4pm till 6:50pm before being able to check in, so headed to a McDonalds for some sustenance. But then discovered that check-in now commenced four hours before the flight, not the three hours as listed on our tickets. After queuing for 20 minutes (with my cpap machine, we're not allowed to do online check-in), we finally got to the counter, only to wait another 20 minutes while the person fluffed around trying to get someone to look at my cpap medical paperwork (on the Emirates template), even though I'd been told by Emirates staff at home that they'd noted everything on my file and there'd be no problems at counters. A senior staff member eventually came along, barely glanced at the letter, didn't look at the cpap or its lithium battery, and waved me through. Then it was on to passport control, where one person was checking through EU passports, and one was checking everyone else. We kept getting held up by what seemed to be Chinese people getting in the EU queue, and being escorted down to our person, whereby they were able to jump the queue, Sheesh... oh well, it didn't mean we got on the plane any later or sooner, I just hate standing in queues with my knee. Keeping moving isn't so bad.

As it was, our flight was delayed 30 minutes due to the late arrival of the incoming flight. Eventually we were under way, and it was nice to find that there was an unoccupied next to me in our centre row of four seats. There was someone on the other end, but this seat gave us both more comfort. I managed to get a couple of hours sleep on the 6 hour 50 minute flight from Paris - without using the cpap - a miracle, but it was effectively the middle of the night so my body clock was ready. I didn't bother to photograph the GF dinner as I was too tired and the meal was not a good one - another of those everything-free meals. Very dense, dry fish with tomato paste, some poorly made mashed potato, two tiny circles of carrot, two soft sugar-snaps, an inedible bread roll, and a friand. I'm over GF aeroplane food, compared to the good meals I see David getting.

Paris to Bordeaux - Thursday 31 August

This morning our bags had to be out by 6:45am as they were being transported separately by truck, all the way to Bordeaux. We said our farewells to Mark and Jill who were finishing the cruise and heading to London and the south of England for a few days. Those of us continuing on to Bordeaux were transported by bus to Montparnasse station to catch our late morning super fast TGV to Bordeaux. This was a train journey that covered the 700km trip in 2 hours and 10 minutes. Mind you, we were in a first class carriage, and it was quite scungie so I don't like to think what second class would be like... we were accompanied all the way by two tour guides, picked up by bus upon our arrival, and driven to our new boat - the AmaDolce, waiting at the Bordeaux dock for us to embark at 1:30pm.

There was a light lunch available, and after 3pm we were able to get into our cabins. We (and the Barrows)have been given an upgrade for this leg of the trip - from category E in the bottom of the boat (small windows at water level) to category B+ on level 3. There is no difference in cabin size or quality, just the appearance of a French balcony (a sliding ranch-slider with a rail to stop you sleepwalking out of your room). Still, the stairs will be a little easier for me, not so much of a curved spiral. I did have to request a better effort on cleaning our room though (and it was done immediately) - it is not impressive when you find someone else's cut fingernails on the floor...

We had a quiet afternoon, choosing from a rather complicated list of tour options for the coming week.

Although we were all going to miss having Janos as our Cruise Director, we were pleased to have Anja as our new Director for this trip. She had been called in as an emergency replacement for the Director we would have had, having toured the Seine with us as a reconnaissance for a cruise she would be directing next year. She is also excellent.

Paris - Wednesday 30 August

We sailed into Paris this morning during breakfast, and docked just along from the Eiffel Tower and beside the bridge that has Paris's 'Statue of Liberty'. There were a number of tours available this morning and we chose the walking tour of Montmartre as we hadn't been there before on our previous visit to Paris in 2011. The option of a tasting tour could be fraught for me, and we had visited the Louvre previously and it would only be another quick skim over some paintings and displays.

We travelled by bus to the bottom of the hill that is Montmartre (enjoying the experience of driving through the enormous Arc de Triomphe round-about). I reckon I could drive through there, no problem, now we understand how it works!

We caught the 'Noddy Train' to the top of the hill and admired the rather hazy views over the city there was a high of only 26C today, with rain threatening on a couple of occasions). We did a quick tour through Sacré Coeur, and then a walk around some of the narrow streets around the top of the hill. It was interesting listening to the history of the area, once a small 'hippy' village (best description for it) attracting drinkers (no wine tax), artists and musicians. We passed some of the cafes and apartments frequented by people like Picasso, Van Gogh, Monet, Eric Satie. We saw where grapes were grown on the hill, and sold as a rather poor but expensive wine. We stopped in the market square area for a coffee, soon joined by the Todds, and enjoyed watching all the tourists strolling past or getting their portraits sketched by the numerous artists.

















Back at the boat by 1pm, we had lunch - a somewhat stressful experience for me on this occasion, partly due to language translation issues with the waiter. Then we stepped out and walked the very short distance to a modern shopping mall, but it was very expensive and didn't have anything of interest to us. Then it was back to the boat to begin packing before our journey to Bordeaux in the morning.

At 6:30pm we headed out in the bus on an increasingly drizzly evening, headed for the world-renowned cabaret Moulin Rouge. It took us 40 minutes to get there in the hectic traffic. We were checked and scanned through security, and ushered to our tables in random groups. We had a fantastic view of the stage up close on the ground floor. The seats were quite jammed together but it was ok. A three course dinner with bubbly was served very efficiently from 7:30pm, including a nice GF and dairy-free meal for me (?).

At 9pm the show started and we were treated to an incredible hour-and-three-quarter show that included spectacular dancing and costumes, music, acrobatics and strength/balancing acts. There was even a scene with girls swimming in a big water tank with several live pythons (all raised up from floor level near our seats. Many moments had the audience gasping in astonishment. This show, with dinner, apparently costs between 175 and 220 Euro per person, so it's not something we would even consider under normal circumstance. However, the price of all outings is already included in our tour price, so it is up to us to make the most of it, and most of the people on this cruise did take the opportunity.

Then it was out into the drizzle and this time only a 20 minute drive back to the boat, again negotiating the Arc de Triomphe round-about. During our return, in the dark and while raining, we saw a woman trying to get through it on her bicycle! She survived, although a car nearly came to grief when it failed to give way to our bus that had the right of way. Vehicles have to give way to all traffic on their right, including vehicles coming into the round-about ahead of and from their right. We also passed through the tunnel in which Princess Diana lost her life. We arrived back at 11:30pm, with some people intending to stay awake all night for their 4:45am departure at the end of the cruise. Thankfully, we were not to be that early!

Lyon to Paris - Thursday 24 August

An early start this morning, with breakfast at 6:30am, suitcases out by 6:45am (being taken separately to Paris by truck), and buses leaving for the train station at 8am. 

Our TGV fast train was only in the station for 10 minutes, with a huge crowd of people boarding, but still left on time at 9:04am.

We sped north at up to 322km per hour (that is not a typo) and arrived in Paris just two hours later. It was a pleasant journey and the landscape was very pleasant. 

Arriving in Paris, we then enjoyed a two-hour bus tour of some key sights. Then we joined a tour boat just under the Eiffel Tour for a two-hour cruise up and down the Seine, while we enjoyed a lovely three-course lunch. We then returned to shore and drove for two minutes, to where our next APT cruise was to start on the AmaLyra. 99 of the 136 passengers were like us and had continued from the Rhône trip.

Dinner was the usual pleasant event, with a new staff looking after us, but continuing with the same Cruise Director. We popped out onto the bow of the boat at 9pm to see the Eiffel Tower all lit up, and then it literally sparkled on the hour, for five minutes.

Final day in Paris

Our final day in Paris, and we started it by climbing the 280 steps to the top of the Arc de Triomphe! I was amazed that I could do it! We were able to avoid the queue by presenting our Museum Passes. The views from the top were incredible, as you will see. Don't forget to check out the photos on my MobileMe Gallery as well because I put a lot more photos there.

After the Arc, we headed in different directions from the Barrows for the day. David and I walked the length of the Champs Élysée, down to the Place du Concorde, taking in the sights on the way, though we weren't interested in the shops. We had scattered showers then, and during the day, and had to put on our raincoats for brief periods. We were rather concerned about the cracks we saw in this building along the way...


During the walk, the 'lost ring' scam was tried on us twice, but we pretended we didn't see them and just kept on walking!

We wanted to have a closer look at the Obelisk of Luxor, but couldn't get very close because workmen were still packing up the staging and seating from Bastille Day on the 14th. We couldn't get near the plaque that marks the spot of the guillotine that chopped off the head of Marie Antoinette and thousands of others.


We used our Museum Passes to pop into the Orangerie Museum to view paintings by Monet, Renoir, Matisse, Picasso and others. Then walked over to the Rodin Museum to look at his work. Along the way we crossed the Pont du Concorde which apparently has stone in it from the Bastille, and passed the Invalides Hotel with its stunning gold dome.

David is fighting off a cold and not feeling 100% today, and my feet weren't going to take me much further, so by mid afternoon we made our way back to the hotel. We popped out for a brief afternoon tea drink and then came back. It would have been nice to get over to Montmartre as I had planned, but we were both beyond it. Never mind, I was very happy when Jan and Steve arrived back from Montmartre with a gourmet macaron for me! Bliss in a single bite.

We had a nice dinner out with the Barrows for our last night in Paris - it's been nice trying out the different restaurants, though the gluten free requirement has meant some of my meals have been a bit boring. a nice fish and spinach meal tonight for both of us though. We think the French could learn a thing or two about putting something green with their dishes though. Most meals come with only the meat and potato, and if you ask for salad, you get a few leaves of undressed lettuce or mesculin. Nevertheless, the meal was nice, and we enjoyed watching the hoards of people out on the street.

Day 3 in Paris - a visit to Versailles

After an early 7:00 am breakfast we headed to the metro by 7:50 am. We caught a train over to near the Eiffel Tower and then changed to the RER train (suburban rail) for the 30 minute journey to Versailles, on the outskirts of Paris. A 10 minute walk to the Versailles Palace saw us joining the long and rapidly growing queues in time for opening at 9:00 am. I had words with an ignorant man who jumped the queue ahead of over 200 people and who tried to stand in front of me. "NO!" I said. He told me that we were all on holiday and to calm down, but backed in behind me in the queue. Believe me, you see some beauts!



We were able to get through quickly, using our wonderful Museum Passes, and grabbed a free audio guide each and had our Rick Steves books open at his Versailles tour pages as well. Then we joined the throng squeezing its way through the corridors and amazing rooms of this amazing Palace built by Louis XIV, the 'Sun King'. What decadence! I kept thinking about the poor people who must have funded it all through their taxes to the King.

Versailles is a huge palace, then a huge area of gardens and parks, fountains, a 'Grand Canal' with its own gondolas, Greek and Roman styled statues, other smaller palaces, and even a 'hamlet' (a tiny peasant village) built by Marie Antoinette for when she wanted the 'simple life'.

After touring the palace, we exited the building to find it raining. I needed to rest my legs and get off my feet, and we were lucky enough to find a tiny cafe where we could have a coffee and check what Rick suggested we should see next. We discovered there was a 'petit train' that we could ride (for a fee) to a further area of the grounds to see the Grand Palais Trianon, and then the Petit Palais Trianon, as well as other buildings of interest and the hamlet. We also had to pay to get into the gardens because it was Saturday and they had the fountains working and music playing. So, off we all went on the train to save a 40 minute walk there.

These other sights were all very interesting, but David and I found the hamlet to be really memorable (after getting lost in the huge parklands whilst trying to find it). It was so quaint, like out of a fairy story. Except... this tiny peasant village had been very real over 200 years ago. As Rick pointed out, Marie Antoinette craved the simple life, so had the village built. But, her home in the village was big enough to have a billiard room and a library! And she didn't do peasant work, only supervised the work of others!

After a long tour around these smaller palaces and grounds, we caught the train to the Grand Canal and had a cappuccino while we waited to catch up with Jan and Steve. The cappuccinos are different than ours. They either have a black coffee with froth on top, or as in this case a huge dollop of stiffly whipped cream over a tiny amount of black coffee. We're finding them very expensive, too, at around 5.70 Euro each!

With Jan and Steve, we then wandered back towards the Palace along the royal drive, looking at the statues, fountains and other items of interest along the way - the 'ancient' colonnade was amazing! The view towards the Palace, and later back from it and out towards the gardens was very memorable.

We had finished our lovely day at Versailles and now headed back towards the railway station 10 minutes away. Man alive, my legs and feet were killing me by now. We got seats on the train, but had to wait 30 minutes before it left. We were crammed in like sardines, and had the dubious pleasure of listening to the conversation between two American students about their travels in Europe for the 30 minute return journey.

I dragged myself back to our hotel and collapsed on the bed. We later enjoyed a nice dinner at a restaurant across the road. But even I was in bed by 9:30 pm and asleep shortly after! We were rudely awoken at 2:50 am by what sounded like a group of men who had congregated on the street outside the hotel, having loud conversations that went on for ages (this sort of event seems to follow David and I around the world wherever we stay in hotels). Finally I phoned reception and asked if they could move these people along, and fortunately they succeded.