Inverness, Loch Ness, Eilean Donan Castle (Loch Duich), Broadford (Isle of Skye): Monday 18 July

Heading out of Inverness at 8:30am, we made our way to Loch Ness, where we had tickets for the 9am cruise along the lake towards the ruins of Urquhart Castle and back. There was a good, clear commentary about the history of the lake, the supposed viewings of Nessie (hoaxes), and the different castles and sights along the shores. It was a wet, bleak morning and I found it interesting to imagine Bonnie Prince Charlie fleeing along our route to the Isle of Skye after the battle at Culloden - we had the luxury of a road and warm bus! We had a coffee stop after the 1 hour cruise (and a nice GF brownie for me), before continuing our journey.

The rain got more steady the further west we went, but there was no wind and it wasn't cold. Scotch mist swirled around the hilltops. There were waterfalls forming. Some areas were beautiful green farmland or trees (sometimes forests), and others were more barren rocky areas, with heather starting to flower in a pinky purple colour.

We stopped for lunch at a very busy cafeteria beside Eilean Donan Castle. The weather was very wet by now. I had a nice GF lunch of 'Huntsman's chicken', potatoes and cabbage - it was basically a chicken breast wrapped in bacon, and cooked in a tomato sauce. Then we headed outside and David held an umbrella over me while I took some photos of the castle. It was very picturesque, even in the rain.

Onwards we went, and it wasn't long before we were crossing the bridge to the Isle of Skye - I was surprised at how high the bridge was. 'Nek minute', we were in Broadford, at the Dunollie Hotel. No more than 20 minutes after arrival, we were on our way again, on the bus with a private guide, for a three hour tour of Skye.

The guide was excellent, very informative, and he basically talked to us constantly as we drove along (literally a running commentary). The views were very stark, and there was a bleak beauty in the rain and mist. We stopped at one point to look over a cliff top at the kilt rock formations of the area - so named because they seem to fold like the pleats of a kilt (Michelle presenting us with chocolates as we re-boarded the bus from the cold wind and rain - she'd very kindly kept aside two GF ones for me). Then we headed back to the hotel along the same road, stopping in the largest town of Skye - the town of Portree. I was glad to have stayed on the bus because moments after people disembarked, it was pouring again! Another 40 minutes, and at 6pm we were back at our hotel - flaked out, and wishing dinner was earlier than 7pm!

Dinner was in a dining room with a nice view out over the water. I had soup and GF bread. The main course was from the buffet and for once (first time this trip?) I was able to have gravy or a sauce on my meat, instead of it being dry and flavourless. I had roast beef, but had to drool over everyone else's Yorkshire pudding. Fruit salad for dessert again. I wouldn't mind, except that I am paying the same price as everyone else and know how easy it should be to simply make most things GF.

After the meal we went up to the lounge to get the wifi to do this blog post (no wifi in the guest rooms at this hotel) and there was some great accordion playing of traditional music happening.

Edinburgh, St Andrews, Culloden to Inverness: Sunday 17 July

Breakfast was available early so we were there at 6:45am. It was amazing - salmon, brie, and all the European type gourmet breakfast items. Also the usual hot and cold buffets. I was given GF toast, and had some sliced potatoes fried up in a separate fryer because I couldn't have the potato scones on offer. Amazing!


We drove north out of Edinburgh and over the Firth of Forth bridge, heading through Alan's home town of Dundee, on our way to St Andrews and the world famous golf course. We arrived quite early, just after 9am, and being a Sunday, not much was open yet. There was a very cold wind coming off the ocean. We grabbed some photos, then headed into a hotel for a coffee. Batteries recharged, we walked along to the Museum of golf, which opened at 10am, just before our bus was to depart. They kindly gave us a very discounted price to just flick our way quickly through the interesting exhibits. Of most interest to us was the screen display of how the upper echelons of society through history tried to forbid the rest of us (plebs) playing golf.

Back on the bus, and before long the landscape had changed to become more hilly as we entered the Scottish highland area. Lunch was at the quaint town of Pitlochlory. Luckily we arrived just before a lot of other tour buses, because everyone was heading to the fish and chip shop, as did we - they had GF fish and chips! David had a hamburger which he didn't think was great, but I regret not grabbing a photo of my huge piece of fish done in GF batter, and with chips. The fish was beautiful, not our sharky stuff - and moist and creamy, not dry. 

Many of us were booked to do a tour of Blair Castle; others stayed back in town while the bus delivered us out to the castle. The castle was amazing! Three floors of fully decorated and furnished rooms, with authentic furniture. The family history was amazing - the castle was first developed in 1479. Truly, a worthwhile visit.

Next stop was the battlefield of Culloden. We had about an hour and a half there, with included entry to the amazing new museum. This was very poignant for me (hence the deliberately solemn photo of us at the battlefield memorial cairn - you could really feel the sadness of the place and of course we understood the impact of the battle on the Scottish), having read all Diana Gabaldon's Outlander series, and watched it on Lightbox. The museum was very well done, explaining the politics and reasons around Bonnie Prince Charlie's efforts to regain the thrones of England and Scotland. It must have been a terrible time, with ongoing threats from the French, and families and clans split on whether or not to support the Prince. The first couple of Outlander books are based around the build-up and outcome of this terrible battle - and because of the books I made sure to take a photo of the Fraser memorial stone... Here we were, on that very field where the battle took place and where the highlanders were slaughtered in 1746. The museum did an excellent movie, re-enacting the battle and making it seem that you were an observer but in amongst it, bringing it to life.

Just 10 minutes down the road was Inverness, also a prominent place in the book series. We arrived at the old Columba Hotel, with one lift and keys for the rooms instead of plastic cards. Dinner for me was rather disappointing - either all the courses without gravy, or a vegetable curry that turned out to be not good, and while the others dined on profiteroles full of cream and chocolate sauce, I had a cheap icecream. Better than nothing though... And, after all, I had hit the jackpot at lunchtime.